Published in
Cambridge University Press, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, (743)
DOI: 10.1017/jfm.2014.81
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Estimating wave heights from pressure data at the bed
Journal article published in 2014 by
A. Constantin 
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Abstract
AbstractWe provide some estimates for the wave height of a two-dimensional travelling gravity water wave from pressure measurements at the flat bed. The approach is applicable without limitations on the wave amplitude. It improves the classical estimates available if one relies on the hydrostatic approximation or on the linear theory of waves of small amplitude.