Published in
Cambridge University Press, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, (768), p. 468-475, 2015
DOI: 10.1017/jfm.2015.112
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The time evolution of the maximal horizontal surface fluid velocity for an irrotational wave approaching breaking
Journal article published in 2015 by
Adrian Constantin 
This paper is made freely available by the publisher.
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Abstract
We derive an equation that relates the evolution in time of the maximum of the horizontal fluid velocity at the surface of an irrotational deep-water plunging or spilling breaker to the first component of the pressure gradient at the surface. The approach applies to overhanging wave profiles, up to breaking time.