Elsevier, Colloids and Surfaces A: Physicochemical and Engineering Aspects, (489), p. 256-264, 2016
DOI: 10.1016/j.colsurfa.2015.10.031
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The incorporation of low solubility natural substances into cosmetic formulations is an industrial trend posing new challenges and opportunities for fundamental research and cost effective product development. The sub-PIT method, an easily scaled-up low energy process, was used to yield a stable reduced droplet diameter (~20 nm) cationic nanoemulsion, containing a natural quercetin extract (95.5% w/w), appropriate for cosmetic application. The formulation presented optical transparency and high quercetin concentration (0.5%. w/w). The preparation method was optimized in terms of mixture HLB and temperature. The best polydispersity index was achieved at 80. °C. Droplet diameter (DLS), zeta potential, rheological properties and nanodroplet morphology (cryo-TEM and AFM) were evaluated. This nanoemulsion contains spheric droplets with the lowest diameter ever described (to the best of our knowledge) for a cationic nanoemulsion prepared by the sub-PIT method. AFM experiments showed that the nanodroplets adsorb on a highly oriented pyrolytic graphite surface, holding a wettability similar to hair external surface. Accelerated stability assays carried out over 90 days indicated that Ostwald ripening destabilization occurred at 45 °C temperature, but was not observed at room temperature. This nanoemulsion exhibits excelent characteristics for application in cosmetics and sets-up a nanotechnological platform for other cosmetic/pharmaceutical applications.