Cambridge University Press, Journal of Fluid Mechanics, (740), p. 17-27, 2014
DOI: 10.1017/jfm.2013.635
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AbstractWe investigate the relevance of Stokes waves for the propagation of ocean swell in the absence of strong currents. By providing estimates for the depth of the near-surface layer to which the main effects of a Stokes flow are confined, we show that wind-generated uniform wave trains can be modelled as Stokes waves over a fictitious flat bed, immersed in the water. Throughout the lower parts of this layer the deviations of the flow from a pure current are negligible.